Shiso Lovely in the Morning

Rediscover the wonder of your pantry

Your pantry is stocked with potential, waiting to be unlocked. That’s the point, isn’t it?The special vinegar you bought while you were overseas, the package of arborio rice from the time you tried to make risotto, recently harvested fennel seeds that caught your nose at a farmers market—the list goes on. Some of us have the luxury of collecting deliciousness, while much of the world has no choice but to use every last bit of what they can get. Don’t lose sight of why preserved foods exist and celebrate what you have. At the very least, share your bounty with others.

I often find myself in a variety of kitchens making food, because what else is one to do in social situations? I have acquired the skill of being able to cobble together something tasty with the odds and ends of whatever I discover, especially fun when the household has limited options. Last month, I was lucky enough to be able to stay at my friends’ vacant apartment. Aimee and Jesse were between tenants, so there wasn’t much left behind. Luckily, there was what we collectively brought for dinner and some local farm finds.

Waking up late to the smells of the bakery downstairs piqued my curiosity, but though I needed to eat something I wasn’t ready to leave the cozy apartment. Thankfully, there were great components that could easily stand on their own and a few condiments to hit all the notes.

Portals Bakery multiseed sourdough bread is all I really needed to get my day started. My younger self would have eaten the rest of the loaf, dozed off for a couple hours, and felt satisfied. These days I feel more inclined to put Things on Bread thanks to Peter, my partner in crime. Olive oil and Jacobsen salt were already on the table. Rummaging through the mostly empty fridge, there was a brilliant bunch of red shiso to bring a fresh zing to the bite. For a touch of (better than maple) sweetness, Kana’s shagbark hickory syrup found its way to a drizzle on top. Bread, oil, salt, syrup, shiso: I’ll remember this combo for a while.

A vacant apartment means no refreshing beverages for a morning pick me up. Vinegar and some form of sugar are often left behind. Luckily, a bottle of Via Farini Condimento Agrodolce, made with white wine vinegar and grape must, happened to be on the kitchen table. Imagined a switchel spin with Kana’s syrup and muddled shiso would hit. I wasn’t wrong.

For your own vinegar drink spin, muddle a small handful of herbs at the bottom of a 12 ounce rocks glass (or any large wide bottomed drinking vessel of similar size). For those who don’t have a muddler, the handle side of a wooden spoon works just fine. Drop in a few ice cubes, a splash of vinegar, and a couple tablespoons of the syrup of your choice. Bring the glass to ⅔ full of water (sparkling is great if you have it). Stir until combined and taste. Adjust sweetness and acidity to your liking.

As always, we hope this inspires you to use the wonderful things you already have on hand to complement what you just picked up. The key is to feel free to play around to gain the experience of making your food and drinks better over time. It’s how we all improve on any skill set. Cooking is no exception.