Super Quick Savory Custard

A luxurious base to appreciate ferments

I’m a big fan of leftovers, even though all too often they just get reheated and fall short of their freshly made selves. There are exceptions, of course: anything cooked low and slow like braises, soups, and stews. Somehow temperature and time melds the comforting flavors making them taste even better the day after.

The deep flavors of these dishes are driven by the liquid gold of the umami bases—the stocks and broths either added or made as the pot simmers (or both). The broth, often painstakingly formulated and watched over, is the most important ingredient in a noodle soup. That’s exactly why, when you eat out, you should always take your leftover pho/ramen/wonton mein broth home. Then you’ve got ready-made liquid gold in your fridge.

Making gravy with any of these broths brings joy, but today I want to talk about how pre-made broth allows us to deliver a simple and nourishing dish in minutes. For me, it started long ago with cooking eggs in the microwave, which became an obsession of sorts. Fairly recently, reading about the zapped egg and mayo combo that yields a super creamy texture in no time rekindled my interest.

Zheng dan is a savory Chinese steamed egg custard that is simply eggs and broth with seasonings on top. The gradual heating with steam sets the mix into its voluptuous texture. So why wouldn’t you use a pre-seasoned option like the leftover broth from your spicy miso ramen? Armed with microwave power, setting the custard is a matter of a minute or two. The deliciousness to effort ratio is unbelievable.

In a small bowl, whisk one egg in one cup of broth until the mix is homogeneous. (Note: The egg to broth ratio is for a very loosely set custard as seen in the first image. Bringing it up to two eggs will make it like silken tofu.) Fill small ceramic ramekins or cups with a few ounces each. Microwave one at a time for a minute or two until most of the custard is set with the center still liquid. Beware—the ceramic dish will be super hot, so use a folded kitchen towel to avoid burning yourself when removing it.

Wait for approximately five minutes for the custard to fully set, then enjoy. While not fermented, I find that this makes a perfect base to season with your favorite ferments: chopped lacto pickle, drizzle of shoyu, and a few drops of chili oil really makes it shine. You can of course also make your own broth from scratch, and if it happens to include some of your homemade miso and/or shoyu, then all the better. But learning how to fold leftovers of all sorts—whether homemade or doggy-bagged—into your cooking flow is a key to running a zero-waste kitchen so I wanted to share this with you.