Tradition and Innovation in Koji
Takashi Sato on connecting the past to the future with fermentation
Greetings, Flavor Freaks! Today’s guest post is from Takashi Sato, President of San-J. Takashi has been a longtime friend and sponsor of Kojicon, and his social media posts share detailed information about fermentation and the many fascinating properties of tamari and other ferments. We’re thrilled to have him join us!
I am the eighth generation of the founding family of San-J, a soy sauce manufacturer established in Japan in 1804. My father came to the United States in 1978, and since then, we have been manufacturing tamari soy sauce in Richmond, Virginia.
We have remained committed to traditional manufacturing methods. Of course, there have been changes. For example, we have upgraded our equipment to larger scales to maintain affordable prices, switched to stainless steel tanks to maintain sanitation standards, and automated various processes to reduce the physical strain on operators. However, the raw materials, koji production process, and fermentation management are all managed according to the same principles as in the past. This is because we believed it was our duty. In other words, we saw it as our mission to pass down Japan's traditional methods to the next generation, even overseas.
Meanwhile, in Europe and the United States, there is a growing trend of incorporating koji into local cuisine to create new seasonings and cooking methods. A notable example is “Peaso,” introduced by Denmark's Noma. Peaso is a neologism meaning “miso made from peas.” Miso, as is well known, is a Japanese fermented seasoning primarily made from soybeans and other ingredients such as rice. However, since these ingredients are not native to Denmark, Noma apparently experimented with alternative ingredients. I was initially very surprised. In Japan, fermented foods like miso and soy sauce are subject to strict regulations (JAS: Japanese Agricultural Standard) regarding their ingredients, so creating similar products using new ingredients is not common.
(The grades of soy sauce are specified by the JAS Law and are indicated as “special grade,” “superior grade,” “standard grade,” etc.)
By the way, this is a bit off topic, but in Japan, soybeans are an essential ingredient in miso and soy sauce. Of course, rice and wheat are sometimes mixed in, but if soybeans are not included at all, it cannot be labeled as miso or soy sauce according to JAS regulations. So, why are soybeans so important in Japanese fermented condiments? Of course, there are various factors. For example, the fact that soybeans have been present in Japan for a long time is one reason (though they were actually introduced from China about 2,000 years ago).
Additionally, there is an interesting factor related to religion. Due to the influence of Buddhism, meat consumption was avoided in Japan. Umami, as we all know, is derived from protein, so without meat as a rich protein source, it becomes difficult to impart umami to dishes. Therefore, soy sauce and miso, made from soybeans that are very high in protein, became invaluable tools for adding umami to dishes. Wheat contains approximately 10% protein, while rice, potatoes, and corn have protein content in single digits. In contrast, soybeans contain approximately 40% protein, making them an extremely efficient ingredient for imparting umami.
Of course, fish was also valued as a protein source, but its availability varied by region and season. On the other hand, soybeans can be cultivated nationwide and are easy to store, making them a stable and convenient ingredient. In other words, under the restrictions of avoiding meat consumption, soy-based miso and soy sauce played a significant role in enhancing the umami flavor of dishes.
However, all of the above are factors unique to Japan. If there were no restrictions on eating meat, there would have been no need to rely solely on fermented seasonings to add umami, and as a result, there would be no need to stick to high-protein ingredients (soybeans). In that case, I thought it would make more sense to use ingredients unique to the region, as they would go well with the cuisine of that region.
Inspired by Noma's Peaso, I realized that fermented seasonings made with koji have greater potential than I had imagined. As a result, we have launched a project called Tamari Maniac and are experimenting with various craft soy sauces. We are also collaborating on interesting projects with restaurants. One project we can disclose is our collaboration with Eleven Madison Park in New York. They are a Michelin three-star restaurant that was ranked first in the World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017. They gave us the idea of creating a fermented seasoning that pairs well with Mexican cuisine, and together we developed Corn Shoyu and Black Bean Tamari. Corn is a key ingredient in tortillas, and black beans are commonly used in Mexican cuisine, so the fermented seasonings made from these ingredients pair exceptionally well with Mexican dishes.
In the end, koji is just one substance, and fermentation is just a method, so there are no limits to what ingredients you can use. However, we do not recommend randomly trying to grow koji mold on various raw materials. In an environment where koji mold grows easily, other contaminants may also grow. Additionally, during fermentation, factors such as salt, temperature, or alcohol levels must be carefully controlled, otherwise the product may simply spoil. Furthermore, attempts to collect wild koji mold must be strictly avoided due to concerns about its potential to produce toxins.
While Japanese brewing companies, unlike Western chefs, may not necessarily excel in creativity or innovation, we have extensive knowledge and experience in handling koji mold. Therefore, we believe we might be able to contribute to the safe and efficient management of fermentation. By combining the strengths of people from various fields around the world, I hope we can explore even more possibilities. If you have any interesting ideas, please feel free to reach out to us. Let's work together to create new seasonings and bring them to the world.
Thanks, Takashi-san! We’re excited to see what else you and your collaborators come up with.
While foreign countries are experimenting a lot with koji and flavors, I don't think it's very fair to say "While Japanese brewing companies, unlike Western chefs, may not necessarily excel in creativity or innovation"! I can name a number of Japanese chefs based in Japan who are very creative with koji and using it in 'novel' ways that I haven't seen any foreign chefs do.